Poor Lambrusco has gotten the short end of the stick. This red wine from Italy has so much potential to be a crowd pleaser. It’s delicious, easy to drink, a bit fizzy and generally pairs well with a variety of foods, but it’s stuck with a reputation that seems to scare even the biggest wine novice off. Its underserved notoriety is based on the garbage that people remember as Lambrusco: the frothy and saccharine red wine from the 70’s and 80’s, a relic of the past like polyester disco pants, best left to history. I, however, know a different Lambrusco, one that’s bold and lively or light and flavorful and can rival the best rosé on a summer day and I’m damned determined to make sure that other people know it too.
You see, I want Lambrusco to happen so bad. I want Lambrusco to happen almost as much as Gretchen Weiners wanted “Fetch” to happen. Except that getting people to like Lambrusco has been as easy as getting people to start using “Fetch”, which is to say, pretty difficult. Much like Gretchen Weiners, I’ve had my fair share of Regina George’s telling me “Stop trying to make Lambrusco happen, it’s not going to happen!” The mere mention of Lambrusco triggers an almost horrified response of judgy noses scrunched up into the air along with grumblings about how lowbrow of a wine it is. After some serious prodding and insistence that “No, it’s actually not wine soda, I promise”, they’ll grudgingly agree to taste it and that is immediately followed by “Are you sure this is Lambrusco? It’s delicious!”
My response to these newly converted naysayers is a smug “SEE. I told you so.”
Lambrusco is delicious, and flavorful, and bubbly and most importantly a far cry from the cloying wine soda from years past. It’s an interesting, fun, and an easy to drink wine with a slight sparkle and vibrant flavor and dammit, it deserves a chance.
What You Need to Know About Lambrusco
Lambrusco is both a variety of grape and a red wine that hails from the Emilia-Romagna Region in northeast Italy. (If Emilia-Romagna sounds familiar it’s because it’s the region that’s home to other delicious gastronomic treasures such as Balsamic Vinegar, Prosciutto di Parma, and the “King of Cheeses” Parmigiano Reggiano.) Lambrusco grapes are one of the oldest varieties of grapes, dating back to nearly 800 B.C. and were known for being a farmer’s dream due to their high yields and durability. Ancient rulers were most likely popping amphoras filled with Lambrusco grape wine.
Lambrusco wine nowadays is typically made in a frizzante style or semi-sparkling, so while it doesn’t have the bubble power to rival Champagne, it’s still got the effervescent mouthfeel that makes it great for summertime sipping. It comes in three styles ranging from dry to sweet but I find the best and most interesting ones are made in a secco (dry) and semisecco (barely sweet) style. For those with the sweet tooth, dolce (sweet) is available also. There are about 10 varieties of grapes but ones to keep in mind while shopping is Lambrusco Sobara, Lambrusco Salamino, and Lambrusco Grasparossa.
If you’re ready to open your heart to Lambrusco, below are my recommendations. Serve them chilled and I dare say you’ve got a wine that’s pretty fetch.
Tenuta Perderzana “Gibe”- Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro doc- 2016
This lively and springy Lambrusco is perfect for those looking for a delicious and affordable introduction into Lambrusco. It’s a plum-hued wine that’s fresh and fruity; think wild strawberries, cherries, and raspberries. Moderate tannins and 12% ABV keeps this wine from being too gentle, giving it a bit of welcome zip that will keep you coming back for more. Serve chilled alongside your favorite pasta or fish dish and I guarantee you’ll be hooked.
Cleto Chiarli Vecchi Modena Lambrusco di Sobara Secco- No Vintage
Don’t let the mushroom-shaped cap or slightly complicated name scare you away from this gem. This dry Lambrusco is interesting and lively with a lovely effervescent mouthfeel. Pale Red in color, it could almost be mistaken for a dark rosé in your glass. Crisp and slightly acidic, this Lambrusco has a wonderful berry nose with pops of plum and cherry. At 11% ABV, this makes the perfect porch sipper. Serve chilled and pair with just about anything. It’s that good.
Bertolani- Rosso All’Antica Reggiano Lambrusco- 2016
This ruby-red Lambrusco is a classic. Dry, complex, and slightly earthy, this Lambrusco is full-bodied with lots of dark plummy fruits and a wonderful fizz to balance it out. At 11% ABV, this plush wine is the perfect accompaniment for all your summer BBQ’s. Serve slightly chilled with grilled meats, pork, or any classic Italian dishes. This vivacious wine can handle the bolder flavors.
Bertolani Dolce Fiore Lambrusco Emilia- 2017
This is truly a wine for those who love things sweet. Jammy and seriously fruity, this Lambrusco is soft and simple. Frizzy Bubbles and some slight acidity keep this wine from being over-the-top and bring it down to the perfect balance. At 7% ABV, feel free to have a bit of a larger glass, or two or three. Serve chilled by itself for an ultimate treat of a dessert wine. If you’re feeling really decadent, pair with some funky cheese and a bit of fruit.
Salt and Jester 